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Thread: Hi JRCivic, ?? 4 u

  1. #1
    Inactive Member green95gsr's Avatar
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    Question

    I understand you might be of help with some advise or input. I've got a '96 GSR with JRSC (please see my sig for list of mods).The tech who installed the JRSC said I had a trace of detonation at 3K so he set the timing very conservatively (I think 6-7 deg BTDC). I've decided to add a Fields Vtec and fuel controller to the car to try to fine tune this car and eliminate the detonation completely, plus advance the timing a little.

    To this end I'm going to schedule a dyno tuning session and I would appreciate some advise as to how I can get the best benefit from this dyno session. I would appreciate some concrete instructions if possible. I don't have any gauges installed yet so any advise on those will be useful too.

    Another thing I wanted to try is the MSD BMT. Do you think this is advisable? I want the most bang for the buck. I'm not interested in decals, flash, fancy wheels or anything like that. I prefer the sleeper look.

    I've managed 14.14 @ 99.3 mph with street tires. I'm looking to get into the 13's, perhaps even mid 13's so I can spank those pesky LT1s wink

    Sorry for rambling and thanks for your input.

    Manuel



    ------------------
    '96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way....

  2. #2
    Inactive Member Bigkat's Avatar
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    green95gsr - Heah man , just some things to think about 'til Jim answers. Most guys are running 8deg BTDC(even @ 8psi). What are the atmospheric conditions in your area (temp, humidity, elevation)

    #1- Are you running recommended plugs(BKR7E-11's)

    #2- What do your plugs look like?

    #3- Gauges to run Boost, electric fuel press.(full sweep), Air/Fuel

    *Auto meter part #'s(thanks Holden)
    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>
    Ultra-Lite Boost 4301 $ 42.95
    " FP 4363 $183.95
    " A/F 4375 $ 56.95

    Sport-Comp Boost 3301 $ 41.95
    " FP 3363 $175.95
    " A/F 3375 $ 54.95

    Traditional Boost 2401 $ 40.95

    Z-Series Boost 2601 $ 42.99
    " FP 2663 $ 176.99

    Phantom FP 5763 $179.95
    " A/F 5775 $ 53.95
    " Boost 5703 $ 46.95<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


    #4- Check around any used parts site, you will notice that Fields VFC are in abundance. IMO, they are $hit. Definitely, not worth the price tag. I would advice going with the Apexi V-AFC(groupbuy $310 shipped)

    #5- you will never be able eliminate the detonation completely without a few more essential parts.
    a. Cartech FMU
    b. RC 310's or Venom 290-300cc(either will run $90/injector)
    c. B&M FPR(swap out stock OEM regulator)
    d. Catch can(helps keep unwanted oil vapors building up into the intake manifold)

    ------------------
    '95 Civic EX w/ JRSC(6psi)& Nos 25 shot,JG TB, Stillen 4-1 header, HKS 2 1/4 exh., '93 Lude VTEC fuel pump,MSD 6 BTM w/ Blaster SS Coil,APEXi SAFC, Autometer Boost/ Air-Fuel gauges, Centerforce D/F clutch, Act lighten flywheel, Eibach Pro's,Tokico Illuminas,Tenzo Front/ Rear Strut tower braces Best et: 13.98@101mph w/NOS

    IN PROCESS:1992 5g VX Hatch w/ 93 Prelude 2.2L Vtec(donor)



    [This message has been edited by Bigkat (edited June 28, 2000).]

  3. #3
    Inactive Member green95gsr's Avatar
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    Thanks BigKat,

    I'm not sure what plugs I'm using. I never changed them and the Mechanic did not either.
    I also have not looked at the plugs yet (my bad :P)

    Those gauge prices are *dear*! Man I hate to tie that much $$ in those. I might install a mechanical FP gauge with a long enough hose to bring it in front of the windshield where I can see it when I need to.

    I was thinking of a digital voltmeter to check the A/F ratio. It's cheaper and I don't have to worry about installing it permanently either.

    I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and install a boost gauge. I just hate to have to find a place for it, etc. I really don't want my car with a lot of gauges and stuff. I like it plain smile

    The Fields is not as good as the Apex VAFC for sure. The thing is that I got tired of waiting for it (i ordered and it naver came), my son offered to sell me his (he does not need it) so I decided I'd try it.

    What is the Cartech FMU? I used to have a Corky Bell turbo in my Miata and it came with his AFPR, but I don't know about the FMU??

    I understand about changing injectors so I don't have a question about this.

    I don't know about the B&M FPR either. Why do I need 2 FPR's? My JRSC came with a JR FPR. I understand that they can be defective but I'll check it first.

    The catch can seems like a good idea. I've a sketch that shows how to do it. I'll go ahead and make one up!

    As far as the detonation goes, I have never heard it. The problem is that I don't want to take any chances. I'd hate to granade my motor by ignoring this potential problem.

    I would like to run 8? BTDC, I think I'm somewhere between 6? and 7? although I have not checked myself. Before the JRSC went in I set the timing at 12? btdc (it came with less advance when I got the car).

    Thanks for the good input. If you have the time please clarify my questions. I really appreciate it.

    Manuel



    ------------------
    '96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way....

  4. #4
    Inactive Member Bigkat's Avatar
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    green95gsr - No problem. now lets see if I can answer your questions real quick.

    #1- Check those plugs. That will give you a good idea of what your ride is doing. Are you still running stock OEM fuel pump? If so, there is part of your problem right there.

    #2- Get the A/F gauge first. You can always just get a mechanical fuel press. gauge for tuning purposes. Make sure it reads to at least 100psi.

    #3- Sorry to here about the wait on the Apexi. Wish my son could swap me parts, but he is only 6yrs old(oh well biggrin )

    #4- The Cartech fmu is corky's JR Fmu substitute(basicly the same think as your Miata's). It has more tuning attributes.

    Thanks LUND(his ride)

    cartech2

    #5- The B&M FPR replaces the OEM fuel reulator(on fuel rail). Allows you to adjust fuel press at the fuel rail(lower/ raise static pressures)

    bmclose

    ------------------
    '95 Civic EX w/ JRSC(6psi)& Nos 25 shot,JG TB, Stillen 4-1 header, HKS 2 1/4 exh., '93 Lude VTEC fuel pump,MSD 6 BTM w/ Blaster SS Coil,APEXi SAFC, Autometer Boost/ Air-Fuel gauges, Centerforce D/F clutch, Act lighten flywheel, Eibach Pro's,Tokico Illuminas,Tenzo Front/ Rear Strut tower braces Best et: 13.98@101mph w/NOS

    IN PROCESS:1992 5g VX Hatch w/ 93 Prelude 2.2L Vtec(donor)

    [This message has been edited by Bigkat (edited June 28, 2000).]

  5. #5
    Inactive Member green95gsr's Avatar
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    Hey, Thanks,

    I'll look at the plugs and see what they look like.

    I can probably hook up a multimeter to check the A/F ratio. I have a Cyberdyne A/F gauge but it's not worth sh1t. I had an Autometer on my Miata but it's not much better because they move so much. I think the volt meter will work out fine.

    I'll install the FP gauge too. Where should it go? Between the fuel rail and the FPR?

    I'm over the wait on the A-pex. My son is old enough to get his own parts wink work for me!

    I can try to get a Corky AFPR, I guess his AFPR is better than his Aerocharger turbos (I sure as hell hope so)

    Where do I get the B&M FPR? Also, I dont see any place to make adjustments in the picture (thanks for the picture, it helps a lot)

    I'm running with the JR fuel pump upgrade. I understand it's good enough for 6 psi. I don't want to go ape shit spending money right now so the less stuff I need to buy and install, the better I'm going to like it wink

    Thanks Again,

    Manuel




    ------------------
    '96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way....

  6. #6
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    Manuel...

    Sorry I am late !!!

    OK, you do not need the Cartech FMU if you plan on staying at 6 psi. The only anvantage this unit will give you is the ability to change the point in which the fuel begins to ramp up. That is, "tip-in" detonation occurs when you are accellerating at partial throttle, and as the vaccuum decreases... and approaches zero boost... then crosses over to boost... there is a lull in fuel delivery. One way to combat this is to increase fuel pressure at this point. However, at a price tag of $199.00, I would try the cheaper fixes first.

    Get the B&M command flo fuel modifier as pictured above. They are available from just about anyone... from mail-order outfits to tuner shops like mine. I sell it for $59.00 plus shipping. You will also need the B&M fuel pressure gauge to tune it: I sell it for $35.00 plus shipping.

    Increase your static fuel pressures first a couple of PSI... then bring your timing back up to 8 BTDC. If you want to increase your "Snap" off the line, as well as your throttle response, get a MSD-BTM... or splurge and get the 6BTM and a coil.

    Once you have some parts, call me at the shop... I will be happy to walk you through some basic tuning.

    Lastly, follow the specifics that "Kat" outlined above... there is good info there for you.


    ------------------



    '93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
    Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

  7. #7
    Inactive Member green95gsr's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim,thanks BigKat.

    You guys are very helpful. I would like to obtain this here B&M. After I get some of these things installed, I want to go ahead with abit of tuning. Jim, I do not have a ph. number for you. If you don't mind please contact me directly and let me know how we can talk.

    Thanks again,

    Manuel


    ------------------
    '96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way....

  8. #8
    Inactive Member redline8k's Avatar
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    Hey JrCivic(jim) I would also like your phone # so I could ask you a few questions. Please e-mail me when you get a chance....
    thanks
    nick

    ------------------
    95 GSR 4-DR w/minor bolt-on looking for boost!

  9. #9
    Inactive Member RougeSol's Avatar
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    hey dude

    NLP 1(205) 798-0112

    thats the number compadre

    Matt

  10. #10
    Inactive Member green95gsr's Avatar
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    Question

    Hi,
    I just spoke with my son and he opined that the B&M has had some bad press. We were talking about the stock FPR and wondered if we could not just disconnect the vacuum line to the stock FPR and get full pressure anyway.
    Wouldn't this eliminate the fuel starvation at tip in? I was also talking with another friend who has a '99 GRS JRSC, he has the fields vtec and fuel controller and he says that he has noticed that the tip in detonation was related to the vtec crossover point in his car. He says that he noticed that the detonation occurred at whatever point he set the vtec control at. He also said he was able to reduce/eliminate detonation by enriching his fuel via the Fields controller.
    What is the story with the B&M? and what about the stock FPR with vacuum disconnected?

    Thaks,

    Manuel


    ------------------
    '96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way....

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